There may be no more universal pleasure in the world than a well-made pizza. If it has been cooked properly, the crust — a delicately crisp, brightly flavored, meticulously crafted dough— crackles under your teeth before it gives way with a distinct, almost luxurious chew, and your mouth is flooded with torrents of tomato and buffalo mozzarella, garlicky and rich, with a touch of hot spice and the sweet sauce.